The 14-day hike across Northern England, from the west coast at St Bees, Cumbria, to the east coast at Robin Hood’s Bay, Yorkshire, is best experienced on foot. The 192-mile route has endless campgrounds located amongst farms, behind pubs, and on hilltops. Some incorporate history and culture, others nature and agriculture, but all offer a taste of heaven after a strenuous long day of walking.
In between the villages of Glaisdale and Clay Bank Top, the 400-year-old Lion Inn stands along route ready with hot food, cold beer and a camping field along side the sunset. Britain’s third highest inn, it pops up along the horizon from both directions – a single sanctuary amongst the dreary moors. The trail can be seen carved into the surrounding flat moorland for miles.
The inn offers numerous guest rooms, a dining room, pub, public bathrooms with hot showers, camping facilities, and most importantly, a mean cooked breakfast. Popular with the locals, it is not uncommon to see patrons arriving by private helicopter -- make sure you don’t have any clothes hanging out when it lands.
The guide books outline numerous recommended stopping points along the way, yet the most mesmerizing is nowhere near a listed village but on a piece of privately-owned land on the west edge of the North York Moors. Lord Stone’s Country Park offers an excellent café, complete with an hot English breakfast, and camping atop the grassy hills. Overlooking the surrounding twinkling Teesside towns (named for their location along the River Tees), the twilight view is remarkable.
The spongy grassy plateau provides a comfy bed but if the wind picks up, you will want to seek shelter down the hill amongst the pines. The desolate location, untainted from light pollution, opens up the purest sky full of swirling stars you will witness throughout the two weeks. If lucky with weather, you can drift to sleep under the endless radiance and rise to sunbeams waking the neighbouring valley. Although rarely listed in guidebooks, it is a worthwhile stop.
Nestled between the high peaks and coastal cliffs, Bradley’s Riding Centre & Bed and Breakfast will transport you into England’s rural past. Depending upon your direction, this could be your first, or last, night “on the road” but you will instantly feel like you’re home. The historic cottage on Low Cock How Farm offers a range of accommodation in the Bed and Breakfast and camping facilities out back.
Located on route just west of Ennerdale, the 16th century Cumbrian Farmhouse, with the original thick stone walls and low beam ceiling, encompasses two kitchens, a number of bathrooms, and a lounge with wood burning stove to warm up and dry off. If you feel like taking a break from camping, the 12-person bunkroom hosts homemade bunk beds with thick warm bedding that only the smell of cooked bacon can drag you out of -- and the customized cooked breakfast (not included for campers) will definitely get you up and at ‘em! In addition, Bradley’s offers horse riding treks for all ages.
Many guidebooks will include accommodation recommendations. Specifically, Mrs. Doreen Whitehead of the Butt House Bed & Breakfast in Keld, puts out a small booklet outlining accommodation across the whole route. You can order one through the website, Coast to Coast Guides. If you decide not to book your accommodation ahead of time, the best way to find someplace is to ask around. Walkers heading the opposite direction are a key source of information as well as the many enthusiasts who have completed the walk in the past.
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